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Re: My intention was to indicate ... for Mart

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XO is audio short hand for cross-over. . If you were to take your speakers apart you'd notice a bunch of resistors, caps, & chokes. . This is means of dividing the frequency spectrum among the appropriate drivers. . Treble to the tweeter. . Bass to the woofer. . The more components used the faster this transisitions. That's what is referred to as 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th-order. . Active XOs are powered. Good car audio has their XOs in the line-level, so nothing exists between the drivers & the amp to kill impact in the bass & distinction in the midrange & crisp air in the tweeter.

As far as my so-called ear is concerned, I'd only have a problem with the B&W 600 series. . That's the conical dustcaps mascarading themselves as phase plugs but breaking up the kevlar cone in the process. . Also, trying it does 40hz thumping in your room for true balanced sound is also a massive problem. . I couldn't give a rat's derriere about pure volume. . That's just to get the ASW2000 putting out 20hz gut-wrenching concrete-cracking rumble as LOUD as the usual misconception because we keep looking for massive amps to propell our speakers effortlessly at normal listening levels. . If you think about it, you'd realise I would've lost my "ears" if that were the case.

Sound's like you'd want a textile dome in your car. I believe you don't hear the aforementioned B&W cone break-up so just about any make will do. As far as a woofer is concerned, is your car a convertable? However, I think you'd want a JL-Audio woofer if it's NOT a convertable & you prefer AC to the windows down because the bass is much faster but doesn't sound good in free-air. It's lean & over-excurts. Hope this helps...

just my 2¢

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