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In Reply to: RE: NEC plasma TV posted by wlee on August 16, 2007 at 19:55:38
is dependent on the amount of time you have on it. If your set has burn in traces at the edges, you have several options if the picture is still decent. First use a gray background if at all possible, this significantly reduces the 'memory'. Secondly, try to set screen settings to use the entire screen. After about half a year or so, the 'burn in' traces ought to disappear, or at least be minimized.
Stu
Follow Ups:
to get rid of burn in, that it saturates the screen with white image for an hour or something like that. Maybe someone else can take the hand off.
but I haven't actually seen a set with the feature.
I did see the Samsung set which moves the screen every 5 minutes or so a pixel (or up to three pixels, user adjustable) over. It freaked me out, as I was installing the set for customer. After finishing the hook up and wall mounting, we turned on the set and was enjoying the picture, when all of a sudden we saw a gray bar on the top. As I frantically double checked the installation it disappeared. But in a few minutes that gray bar appered on the left side.
Like they say when everything else fails, read the damn manual, and the explanation was there and adjustable with the menu screen.
Stu
hi uncle Stu,
Sorry i didn't make myself clear, no it does not have any permanent traces. Only when the images moves, it has residual traces...! My question is, the Plasma produced 3.5 yrs ago, is it better then a good LCD of today?
tks
WLee
Most current plasmas have times in the 5 to 6 millisecond rates. Many LCDs have the pixel turn on/off times in the 12 to 15 millisecond time and the afterimages become rather annoying in fast action scenes. I know exactly what you are talking about and have seen it many times. The latest generation (but be careful to check!) LCDs are now boasting times in the 6 to 7 millisecond times and should have that issue put to rest. There are still a lot of 'slower' sets still being made, but I have seen some sets at Sam's Club even in the 9 inch sizes with that kind of fast switching.
Just be careful, and ask. Most sets with the fast switching times are quite proud and usually advertise such times prominently.
Stu
Ok got it, tks!
I always wanted to tweak the inside. The PS was out about 2.5 years ago, I managed to get NEC to repair without charge and asked them to make sure no PS failure. The problem with Singapore is that the AC supply is at 237v-243V. So lots of appliance easily got knock out as most of them are for the UK 230V and China/HK 220V!
Beside, I wanted to improve the sound of the amp inside. I am sure just by changng the rectifier diode to Fr type and replaced the output lytic caps (of the class D amp) will improve the sound.
WLee
is a mess, and everything seems to be surface mount devices, which my old eyes can't seem to even distinguish apart from each other. Well, not really since everything is on separate cards by function, but space is really at a premium.
I use a lot of power supply conditioning (the new Bybee Golden Goddess AV tail is quite nice!) but even using a RGPC and other filter types seem to help things a lot.
Good Luck
Stu
Yes, am getting old eyes too, now when I solder I need to take off my glasses and put up a lot of lights! So I must have mre then 10 LED flash lights...
What I did usually was to replace the rectifiers with the FR type, increase the caps right after the FR AC rectification, before the switching is done. It does improve the sound a lot. I tried plaing 0.047 uf Russian Teflon there, and yes I could here the sound becomes cleaner and clearer. Of course iwill also try to find out which parts to eliminate, such as op amps and lytic path coupling caps.
I recently bought a Pioneer A600 DVD players, and the surface mount parts is perhaps half of the usual SM types... I think my time to tweak is probably numbered!!
Best Rgds
WLee
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