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In Reply to: RE: Front projection set up posted by dbphd on April 02, 2008 at 02:31:16
There may be other better options other than ceiling mount, depending on the room. Basically for a ceiling mount you need a good sturdy rafter to locate and secure the mount. Then you need to be able to get electricity (you really need an AC outlet in the ceiling) and the three component video wires to the projector. Locating the wiring and hiding the wires is the tricky part. That's why other than a ceiling mount, such as the pier I used, or perhaps a high shelf on the back wall might be easier. Some guys like to steal space from an adjacent closet to locate a high shelf for the projector and then put the wiring and perhaps even some of the equipment in the closet.
If you have not already purchased a projector, be aware that some projectors have Zoom lenses that allow more flexibility with respect to where they are located than others, particularly with respect to locating a projector along a back wall in a larger room. The Panasonic AE units, for example, have a 2x zoom which allows mounting as near as 11 ft to as far back as 17 ft in front of a 100 inch diagonal screen. I'm not sure about the Sony you are considering in that regard, but many have only a 1.1 or 1.2x zoom, which limits how far back in the room the projector can go.
As a startiong point it would be helpful to know overall length of the room from the screen wall to the wall opposite, as that in part will determine if you are going to be stuck doing a ceiling mount. Also, a so-called coffee table mount can work well in some rooms, if you can get electrical wiring to the coffee table out in the room. The guys that do this typically crawl space under the room to run electric and other wiring to the coffee table.
Follow Ups:
The room is approximately 19' X 14", with easy access to the attic above. The ceiling already has recessed lighting in place, so adding a ceiling mounted receptacle should be simple. I would use a single HDMI cable to the projector. As an alternative, the wall opposite the screen wall separates the room from an 8' X 7' closet.
From time to time, we use a skilled carpenter and an electrician for small projects. But the HT installers in Santa Barbara seem to want to install only what they sell, and I think I want to buy a used projector, because prices are so volatile.
The room is currently used for viewing films and TV, listening to music, and computing tasks. The audio system is very effective for 2.1 and 5.1 modes.
db
First, in a projector, lamp life is critical, and replacement tends to run over $300. PLus, prices on the new units are dropping rapidly. A nice 720p projector can be obtained for $900-$1300, and full 1080p units now run from $2000-$2500. As a consequence I would not even consider a used projector. Give me a budget you want to spend and I can suggest several viable options, all new and with the latest features, within that budget.
Second, if you want to mount in the ceiling, the problem of putting a ceiling mount in place is about as difficult as mounting a ceiling fan...BUT for the same reason you do not want a ceiling fan to fall on your head applies to the projector.
THird, the Web site www.projectorcentral.com is very useful in identifying top quality projectors that are within your price range. I would spend a lot of time on that site if I were you, as they have carefully and elaborate reviews of lots of different projectors as well as links to a bumnch of vendors. I have purchased two projectors from projectorpeople.com, which I identified from the projectorcentral site, but there are other quality vendors out there as well. Whoever you pick as a projector vendor should be able to help you make sure you get the correct ceiling mount for your projector. Once you get the correct ceiling mount for your projector from your projector vendor, then it should be pretty obvious as to houw that mount will be attached to the rafters in the ceiling.
Have you thought about your sound system and DVD/VCR/Cable setup? It's common to run your HDMI or component video connections feeding off your DVD or cable through the surround sound receiver, with the surround sound receiver then controlling which signal gets sent to the projector. But then the HDMI and component video signals need to run from the sound receiver to the projector, and you need to think about keeping these cable runs as short and simple as possible. At minimum you will want the projector fed by either component video or HDMI plus probably a wire for a composite video signal should the need to project a composite video signal from a VCR or game system arise.
The digital outputs of a PlayStation 3-80 and Direct TV HD-DVR go to a Proceed PDSD for 5.1, as well as the digital output of a Sony 9000ES for CDs for 2.1. The analog output of the 9000ES goes to a Proceed PAV for SACDs for 2.1.
db
Are you planning on running the video from the various sources directly to the projector, or through the PDSD? You need to think about how you are going to switch the video projector between the various sources you might want to use. The projector can be used as the switching device but only if you have the same or fewer sources for that type of input. Another reason to buy a new-model projector is that they typically offer more source inputs that can be controlled by the projector. Typically, a projector will have one composite video input, one set of the three component video Pb Pr and Py inputs, perhaps an S video input, and a single HDMI input. But some of the newest projectors have two HDMI inputs. Now count your possible video sources and what type of video input to the projector might be required for the best possible video from each
.
If you have HDTV cable or Sat, that will probably go into the projector through an HDMI input. Analog (SD) cable will take a composite input. Standard or Blu Ray DVD can go in through a component or HDMI input. Standard DVD can go through the S video input. (My experience has been that a DVD running under composite video is markedly inferior to component video, but I can't tell any difference between component and S video on standard definition 480p DVDs). Output from a VCR is generally just a composite video signal. In my case I run component video direct from the DVD player to the projector, but since there is only a single composite video input on my projector, I pass the composite video from the VCR through the 6.1 Pioneer receiver as well as the composite video from my standard definition cable, and use the Pioneer as the switching device. At some point I will add high definition cable and that will enter the projector directly through the available HDMI input. However, if you plan to run Blu Ray AND high definition cable, a projector that has two HDMI inputs or an audio unit that inputs and allows switching between 2 or more HDMI sources would be a neat way of controlling everything. The problem with twin HDMI inputs on the projector is that you have to run an extra separate HDMI cable from the source to it...perhaps a problem in a ceiling mount where one would like to simplify the wiring into the projector as much as possible, and long HDMI cables are not cheap.
So think about your various video sources, how each type will enter the projector, and from what point in the chain will you control each.
It would be helpful to draw this all out in a diagram.
David
I should have clarified that I have been using a 3-in 2-out HDMI Octava switch to select between the PS3-80 and HD-DVR sources. The output of the switch now goes to a 40" Sony LCD monitor; it would instead go to the to-be-acquired projector. I think the only change with a projector would be that the Proceed PAV/PDSD and amps would need to be invoked for all audio, whereas the audio capability of the monitor can be used for casual viewing.
The LCD monitor is on a cart that can be wheeled out of the way, and I had thought of using that as an alternate display. But I've since given up on that idea. Most of the TV programs we watch have 5.1 audio that we enjoy through the Proceed system-- the pre/pro and amps are turned on from standby with a single button on the remote. And for music, the already excellent stereo imaging of the KEF 104/2s is deeper without the LCD sitting between them.
I am interested in the material you used in building screens. It has been suggested elsewhere that it is preferable to buy the screen last, after you have lived with the projector a bit.
db
If you have a Hancock Fabrics store, they carry a 54 inch wide cloth what they refer to as drapery blackout cloth for about $4 a yard. It's worked so well for me that I have not felt compelled to replace it with a more expensive cloth made for DIY screens.
with only 500 hours on the lamp in almost brand new condition. The price I paid for it was much less than what Agon was asking for them. So in a way if you’re very careful and did your research with due diligence on the unit I don’t see any problem on buying used projectors. Of course, there’s always the caveat emptor factor to worry about as well.
If a thing's worth doing, it's worth doing well
(Proverb)
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